Before doing any disassembly, I read over This PDF File that is an official Apple service manual with over 240 pages! This thing tells every single detail about this particular model of powerbook. I got it from a friend on Spymac. This is the thread where I got it from.

So, I realized that I had no need to disassemble the base of the laptop, therefore I can still have fairly easy access to the keyboard and track pad, and I can keep the battery in easily (since quick power outages are pretty common here in Florida). All I have to take apart is the display. So I followed the guide to take the display apart on pages 61-88. I also removed the Apple logo on both sides of the display and the name plates that say "Macintosh" and "Powerbook 1400c" - Save these for later. As you can see below I did not remove the LCD from the plastic backing, this way it is protected from any banging around that may occur, and it's much easier to manage. So, really, the only disassembly that happens here is the front bezel of the display, not hard at all. I removed the front bezel, and the hinges, and the inverter board to the right of the LCD and then flipped the display around so it faces the other way. This is basically how it goes into the frame. And it fits just fine, as seen in the third picture below, but the glass is removed.

Since the matte has to be flat on the LCD, I have to cut off the hinges on the display and cut a small hole in the side for the display cable to come out so that it will not push the matte up.

With the display flipped around now, the cable that goes from the display to the inverter board (which powers the LCD) is not long enough. So I had to extend the wires, and I used electrical tape to make the connections, but I later decided that small wire nuts were better, so I recommend using those. You can also now see that I am using some small pieces of Styrofoam to prop up the display so it is away for the keys and track pad. So now it should be all electrically sound, so now is a good time to boot it up to make sure.....it works!

I noticed a small board on the bottom of the display that has a red and a black wire going to it. I removed the board and taped it onto the larger cable that it's wires run into, just to get it out of the way. So, now for the matte. A quick note about the matte, I measured the inside of the frame to be 10 1/8" x 13 1/8" and the screen size (the hole in the matte) to be 9 1/16" x 6 5/8". This does cut off some of the bottom of the screen, and I want that because of the speakable items window title bar in the lower right corner. I do not want this visible, so I am cropping it off. It's such a small amount of space, it will barely be noticeable. So, now to glue the matte onto the LCD. We mixed up some epoxy glue and applied it around the metal edges of the LCD and some also on the plastic case. After the glue is on, I carefully placed the matte on it so that it is straight and it covers the places I want. Then I put a large piece of cardboard over it, and put something heavy on it to make sure it stays on (in this case an outdated Photoshop book). I let this dry overnight

As it turned out, the Styrofoam piece I used to prop the display up over they keyboard were too big. So I cut of piece of cardboard (3 thick) and taped it together and put double side tape on it. I'll put these on later when the epoxy glue dries. Time to take a break now while the glue dries overnight.

Introduction

Step #1 - Software

Step #2 - Parts

Step #3 - Disassembly

Step #4 - Mounting